Of the three epithets bestowed upon Bologna; La Dotta – The Learned, La Rossa – The Red and La Grassa – The Fat, it was the latter, fatter moniker that caused me concern. Since I have little willpower where food is concerned I knew I would return from Italy a good few pounds heavier (three if you must know) having gorged myself on pasta, succulent cured meats, gelato and yet more gelato. Let me share the foodie delights that Bologna, food capital of Italy, brought to the table.
The food markets of Bologna are tucked in a network of back streets just off the Piazza Maggiore where the city’s merchants have bought and sold since medieval times. The shady alleyways of Via Clavature, Via degli Orefici and Via Vecchio Pescherie are lined with stalls displaying ripe, succulent fruit, vibrantly coloured vegetables and the freshest of fish.
Salumeries abound tempting passers-by with cold-cuts, cheeses, Balsamic vinegar and Mortadella – an age-old, cured and spiced pork sausage originating from Bologna. Row upon row of prosciutto legs loiter from the ceilings – you can choose which part you’d like your meat sliced from – one side is better for eating as an anti-pasto with cantaloupe melon or fig, the other good for sandwiches or cooking.
Cheese is big in the Emilia-Romagna region and tantalising aromas waft from the many formaggerias – there’s enough cheese here to quell the strongest of cheesy cravings. Huge wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano from Parma, Formaggio di Fosse, a cheese ripened in pits to an ancient recipe, Parmesans rest temptingly at nose-level on the counters of well-stocked, gourmet cheese shops.
You won’t find Spaghetti Bolognese in Bologna – I know, we looked – fortunately a friendly waiter enlightened us. The Bolognese sauce is known simply as ragù and is never served with spaghetti. Ever. It comes with tagliatelle ribbon pasta, invented in the city; the rich, meaty sauce and golden, eggy pasta with a glass or two of red wine really hit the spot after a long days sightseeing.
Bologna took pasta to a whole new level. My travelling companion, Kathryn, (Travel with Kat) discovered Serghei a tiny Trattoria on Via Piella. The waiter didn’t speak English and the menu was in Italian so unsure what I was ordering I chose Tortelloni di Zucca. When I took my first mouthful it was a moment of culinary heaven. Each, perfect, al dente, ravioli parcel contained soft buttery pumpkin with just a hint of sweetness – mouth-wateringly superb and if I ever find a recipe for it I’ll be sure to share.
And finally Gelato…
Bologna was the venue for my first ever Gelato. We were in need of refreshment and couldn’t decide whether to have a coffee or a gelato when inspiration hit – coffee gelato! Kathryn went for dark chocolate and when I saw it I have to confess to a little gelato-envy. However, mine too was magical; a cone full of silky-soft, creamy deliciousness and the first of many… Hopefully walking some of the many miles of porticoes helped burn those gelato calories off.
So there it is, a food-fest worthy of all the fuss? Gastronomic Bologna is La Grassa for good reason in a city where over-indulgence is compulsory…
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hi! next time you come to Bologna, be sure to look me up. I’ll be happy to show you how to make the tortelli di zucca you enjoyed so much.
I teach pasta making at Taste-of-Italy.com
Thanks Maribel – I’ll be back in September with Blogville but not sure of my daily plans yet. Would love to learn to make it and can’t wait to taste it again!
Beautiful pictures, Suzanne!
Ciao from Bologna.
Thank you Stefano
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Great post Suzanne! My compliments for the wonderful images. Bologna definitely has the most amazing outdoor markets and the BEST gelato!!
The food in Bologna was amazing – no wonder they call it the food capitl of Italy ;0)
Lovely market shots, great colours!
Wow, beautiful shots! Now I’m hungry!
Bologna is all about the food – and it was fab!!
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I have never been to Italy, but someday will make it there! Italian food is one of my favorite foods (and I have worked in a couple Italian Restaurants when I was going through college)…I’ve learned how different names can mean different things, especially when things get mixed up here in the States — so confusing, but I love it. Beautiful market images…they are very colorful — makes me want to buy an airplane ticket right this second!
This was my first visit to Italy – around 25 years later than originally planned! The sooner you get there the sooner you’ll fall in love with it…
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Oh, my stomach’s grumbling just looking at this Italian food! A friend and I went to Bologna a few summers ago and loved the food and the architecture. Did you ascend any of the ‘medieval skyscrapers?’
I was ready to climb the 498 steps of the Asinelli Tower – when I got there it was closed for renovation. I quelled my disappointment with a gelato instead….!
Sounds like the perfect antidote!
I love Bologna and its cuisine
Great pictures..
It’s a wonderful city and fabulous for food – I’d love to go back…
I’m going to have to eat my way through Bologna sometime! The markets are so inviting, and everything looks delicious. And of course the gelato sounds spectacular…
If you’re going to eat your way through Bologna good luck, enjoy and take an extra suitcase full of clothes a size larger….!!
I always “forget” about consequences when I think about all the tasty food in Italy, including of course gelato!
I’m going to Italy for the first time in just under 8 weeks and am very excited about the trip. I enjoyed reading through your post making travel and good notes. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Marvin – It was my first time to Italy this year too – it’s wonderful so I’m sure you’ll have a fabulous time
Pasta and gelato! What more can you want? Delicious post Suzanne, would love to wander that market!
Thanks Madhu – I went back a couple of times to the market!
The photos are fantastic, Suze. I’m no foodie but it all looks so vibrant and appetising.
It was a feast for the eyes too!
Delicious post
I was quite hungry after writing that!
Thanks for dropping by
Ah yes, dark chocolate gelato… I tried others but none could compare to this!
Is it because the first is always the best? Am missing our gelatos!