Italy’s Amalfi Coast is one of the most stunning drives in Europe; at once breathtakingly beautiful and slightly terrifying. Around every hairpin bend on the sea-side of the winding corniche is a view more spectacular than the one before – on the cliff-side countless tour buses pass within a hair’s breadth on the narrow ribbon of road. Fortunately, Hugo, the owner of the little blue Fiat we’re squashed into, is a skilful driver – and he’s keen to preserve his paintwork!
The Costiera Amalfitana weaves its way along the coast for over 50 kilometres, from Sorrento to Salerno, linking the towns of Positano, Praiano, Ravello and Amalfi along the way. Much of the road is hewn from the near-vertica, limestone cliffs which plunge into the sapphire Tyrrhenian Sea far below. We pass terraces of lemon trees, vineyards, olive-groves and fishing villages. Pastel-painted houses cling precariously to the steep hillsides and tumble over one another as they scurry downwards towards the ocean.
Balancing Act
We start off from Sorrento, the best unobstructed views are to our right and Giovanna, our guide, tells us of local legend and folklore. We pass Li Galli, an archipelago of three small islands from where the mythological Sirenuse (Sirens) were said to have lured sailors to their deaths on the rocks with their enchanting voices. They also lured Rudolf Nuryev the ballet dancer to the islands where he made his home in his later years.
Li Galli Isles on the left and Positano right
The little Fiat struggles up steep inclines and we pass picture-postcard Positano. I’d loved to have stopped to explore, however, there’s only limited parking on the upper road and not one space to be seen on the day we were there. I looked wistfully back over my shoulder at the pastel-hued town as we left it behind – some of the prettiest views are looking back on the town as you head towards Amalfi. Not being able to stop was such a tease, my trigger finger itching to click away, another time maybe.
We continue through Praiana passing St John the Baptist church – its Majolica tiled dome glistening with the traditional Majolica colours of the region – yellow for the sparkling sun, blue for the cobalt sea and green for the lush vegetation. The road snakes on until we arrive in the small harbour town of Amalfi; shoe-horned into a narrow ravine at the top end of town and tumbling out into the bay at the other.
Amalfi – the view looking back from the Harbour
We park up and wander through the town whose name conjures images of 50s film stars, Martinis and sleek white yachts. The small harbour is overlooked by steep cliffs upon which crisp villas, houses and hotels perch admiring the view.
Amalfi Harbour
We make our way up a steep alleyway, draped with blue flags, to an impressive sight; It’s not all about 50s chic here, the town is home to an elaborate 9th century Christian cathedral, it’s 62 steps spilling down into the Piazza Duomo below. After climbing up to Duomo di Santa Andrea, dedicated to and said to contain the remains of apostle St Andrew, take a walk around to the back to the peaceful Chiostro del Paradiso, a Moorish-style cloister and tropical garden – a peaceful corner in a busy town. The Piazza’s fountain is also worth a closer look .
After a coffee, how we managed not to succumb to the delectable Italian pastries I’ll never know, it was time to head back to Sorrento, stopping en-route for lunch in a gorgeous hilltop restaurant, La Tagliata. This time we travelled on the inside lane; the views weren’t quite as good, as we were looking through the outside lane of traffic, but not nearly as hairy either – or as exhilarating!
Have I whetted your appetite for the Amalfi Coast? Here are some other ways to enjoy the view…
The SITA bus departs twice-hourly from the front of the Sorrento train station to Positano, continuing on to Amalfi. You can buy individual tickets (€1.40–€2.50 per sector) or buy a UnicoCostiera pass for unlimited travel all along the Amalfi Coast – valid for 24 hours (€6) or 3 days (€15). The bus can get very busy in high season and a seat is not guaranteed. For the best views when travelling from Sorrento to Amalfi sit on the right-hand side of the bus (as you face the front) and swap to the left for the return journey.
For a different perspective on the return journey the ferry is a good option giving beautiful views of coastline from the water. www.metrodelmare.com Frequency varies seasonally and there are roughly six daily trips between Amalfi and Positano (20 min €6) and four daily between Amalfi and Sorrento (60 min €7).
If you’re feeling reckless/brave you could hire a car and drive yourself – although that’s not something I’d recommend if you really want to take in the views because your eye will be on the oncoming traffic – out of season would be less crowded but still not for the faint-hearted. Parking is very limited in the smaller towns.
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The Amalfi coast is something I always wanted to see – every time I see photos from there I feel the urge.
But because I don’t drive anymore and my travelling buddy she have lost 50% of her sight – it will not happen, because to see it the right way there has to be a car involved and going on a coach tour is not my thing.
You really have a lovely blog – I thought I was bad when it was about travelling – but your bet me with a horse length. Like I like where I landed and I will stick around.
Hello! You can hire a car with driver but I don’t know the cost of this – probably a bit steep I would think. Am looking forward to exploring your blog further too
If I win on the lottery .. I will hire car with driver and I will request a tall and handsome driver.
There is so many places to see .. time I have, but money not enough to do everything.
Looking forward to having you around. Wish you a great weekend.
Make sure you sit in the front with your tall handsome driver – everytime you go round one of those hairpin bends he’ll lean in real close!!
Thanks for the tip … will remember that. *smile Have a great week.
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This is a well informative content.The written skill is so good. i really appreciate it that you shared with us such a informative post. I would admire you to write some posts for our blog as a guest blogger. Here below is our blog EaseMyTrip Travel Blog
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Thank you for stopping by and your kind comments – I will e-mail you when I get a moment.
Gorgeous pictures Suzanne! I hope to return someday…..hopefully soon
Thanks Madhu – I loved the area
Oh to be there now, Suze. Awards time again. Blame Alyson! http://restlessjo.wordpress.com/2012/10/27/six-word-saturday-39/
I’m planning on going back next year – Italy is my new love affair!
Thank you, Jo, for the nomination and your lovely comments
Oooh, where next time?
Back to Sorrento with a trip to Positano – I’m taking a group out for work (how lucky am I!)
I’ve gone right off you! (smile)
Well I’m keeping my award!!!
Love the Amalfi coast! We did drive it and I’m here to tell you I savoured it more as the passenger than my husband, the driver! Hair-raising indeed! Particularly when you are overcome by the scenery and distracted momentarily … when a bus suddenly greets you on a corner. Yikes! As you demonstrate with your fab photos, it’s worth every white-knuckle moment.
Thanks for dropping by – Italy is such a gorgeous country and the scenery on the Amalfi Coast stunning but, as you say, a white knuckle ride but worth it!!
Sorrento is really beautiful. We hired a car with driver because I didn’t think I’d want to do some white-knuckle driving myself. This reminds me of that trip but Italy is so beautiful and so many more to see. I love your pictures!
Thank you for visiting my blog – There”s no way I’d have wanted to drive that road! Such a beautiful part of the world – I’d return tomorrow if I could…
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Wow – what a beautiful area. I really like the photo of the Duomo, but I’m a sucker for great churches!
It is beautiful and such a surprise to walk into the square and see such a stunning structure. Thanks for stopping by
Just wanted to let you know I have nominated you for the Beautiful Blogger Award. I hope this will be welcome news for you. Some people choose not to participate, others enjoy the opportunity to visit new-to-you blogs and to be visited by new-to-you bloggers. To read more about the award and accepting this nomination, visit my post at http://autumninbruges.wordpress.com/2012/10/15/catching-up-on-awards/
Hi and thank you! So happy to have been nominated by you and congratulations on your awards. Apologies for late reply – no internet for 3 days (argghh!)
Stunning views! Unbelievable scenics! This is very enjoyable!
Thank you – great to get such lovely feedback
Gorgeous photos. I’m thinking Italy looks like a good place for our next trip!
I love Italy and can’t believe I left it so long before visiting – you won’t be disappointed! Thank you for visiting my blog
What a shame you didn’t get a chance to stop at Positano! neither did I when I took this route by bus to Amalfi. It was pouring with rain but the views were still dramatic. Your lovely pictures bring back happy memories.
We were able to stop for lunch in the hills above the town but I’d love to visit the town itself – so pretty…
Your photos are marvelous! I JUST returned from the Amalfi Coast & will never be the same. I’m in love with every aspect of it
It’s gorgeous isn’t it – I can’t wait to go back now! Thanks for stopping by…
Cool! We went to Capri for a week. Amazing!
Just read that!!
Yay! x
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I’m so desperate to get to the amalfi coast. Especially would love to see Positano and Sorrento. Great post! Am feeling inspired to make a visit happen.
Do go, and soon! I wish I hadn’t left it so long (25 years!) I’ll be going back next year. Love it
Gorgeous! I’m definitely going to the Amalfi Coast on my next trip to Italy. Great pictures
It was breathtakingly beautiful – wanna go back!!
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